Filetype PDF | Posted on 15 Sep 2022 | 3 years ago
Authentication
digital resources
144x Filetype PDF File size 1.20 MB Source: koreascience.kr
ഘࢶ୍
1.ಕ
߄٣झਗഋ%BSU.BOJQVMBUJPOӝמী ҙೠ যಁۡ $"%दझమ ࠙ࢳ
An Analysis of the Apparel CAD System Regarding the Dart Manipulation
Function in Bodice Patterns
ઁҮܨҗ
ъࢎഘࢶ୍
ࠗҮࣻ ӂࣼ൞
Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Cheju National University
Lecturer : Seon Cheol Hong
Associate Professor : Sook Hee Kwon
䝻ݾ ର䝼
Ǎࢲۿ ǐѾۿ߂ઁ
ǎোҳߑߨ߂ର ଵҊޙ
ǏোҳѾҗ߂֤
The following research compares the two apparel systems that are used in Korean colleges, Gerber and PAD, by
analyzing the advantages and disadvantages of their Dart-related functions in the pattern construction process.
The results are as follows.
1. Regarding transformation methods, the Gerber system was able to use pivot method, while the PAD system
was able to use both pivot method and slash methods. in other issues, the PAD system was not able to synthesize
more than two Darts, and only showed differences for other functions. On the other hand, the diamond-shape Dart
and diagonal Dart could be produced only in the PAD system, while curvy shaped Dart could not be produced in
either system.
2. The change in side lines due to the change of Dart width only occurred in the PAD system, while the change in
Dart length only occurred in the Gerber system; both systems need improvement.
3. As for the pattern outer line connection capability, which is a Dart automatic transformation function, both
systems showed unnatural shapes which need to be corrected.
4. We first constructed a Dart shape composition chart according to the number of Darts. Based on this, we
examined whether they have appropriate shapes. Among single-Darts, the Gerber system had an inappropriate,
outer-line shape for Underarm Dart and Center Front Dart, and among two-Darts, it was inappropriate for Side and
Waist Dart.
ઁয(Key Words): (Dart), যಁۡ दझమ(Apparel system), PADदझమ(PAD system), Ѣߡदझమ(Gerber
system)
Corresponding Author: Seon Cheol Hong, Department of Clothing and Textiles, Cheju National University, 66 Jejudaehakno, Jeju-si, Jeju-do, Korea
690-756 Tel: 82-64-754-3532 Fax: 82-64-725-2591 E-mail: texhong@naver.com
–91–
ഘࢶ୍
1.ಕ
2 ೠоഥઁӂഐ
*ࢲ ۿ $"%दझమಁఢઁӝמ࠙ࢳҗ$"%दझమসӒ
য়טզܨসࣗ࠺बসਵ۽ಿઙࣗ ۨ٘ীٮܲোҳח࠺ೠपࠄোҳীࢲחಁఢ
ചࢤഋకౠਸыҊਵݴ
ӝࣿড
ࠁ ઁӝמҗҙ۲ػࢶ೯োҳܳ߄ఔਵ۽৬ҙ۲ػӝ
ডসਵ۽߸ചೞחױ҅ী۞ೠઁಿࢤഋ מٜױ߂ޙઁਸ$"%दझమಁఢઁӝמਵ
కী য ஹೊఠदझమ ࢚ಿӝദ
ࢤ
౸ݒী ܰӝ ۽࠺Ү࠙ࢳೞ۰Ҋೠ
өҟߧਤೞѱਊغҊਵݴ
ౠܨࢤҕীࢲ য়טզܨস҅חޙࢤदझమ FBTZPSEFSTZTUFN
द
$"%$".दझమبੑಁఢઁ߂ࣻ
Ӓۨ٬
۽যٜҊ
ݒझழझఠ݃ઁ࣌ .BTT$VTUPNJ[BUJPO
݃ఊ
ױ ١ җীࢲਗױх
সनࣘࢿ
সҕ ѐ֛ܨসীਊغযࣗ࠺ӝഐ
ࣻ৬ഋী
ਊೣ
Ҋߊࢤߑ
ܐࠁҙ߂ҙܻਊ
ݏחܨীҙब֫ইחदীࢲ٣ੋಁఢࢸ҅ח
ઁಿળച߂ಿೱ࢚
ੋѤ࠺х١ਬޖഋبੑബ ؊؊ਃೞѱؽীٮۄಁఢઁӝמীೠਃࢿ
җܳоઉ৳ ӣࣻഅ
࣠ਮ
؊ೡࣻѷ ഐࢶ
যಁۡ$"%दझమ
അਊغҊחযಁۡ$"%दझమҴղস҅ഝਊب ҕബਯࢿҗࣘبܳૐदఃӝਤ೧ࢲחदझమ
חҕসਊಁఢઁ
Ӓۨ٬
݃ఊܻܳ୷ਵ۽ೞ ಁఢઁӝמ೧৬࠙ࢳਸాೠഝਊਸૐदఃחߑউ
ݴ٣ੋಁఢઁੌࠗীࢲ݅पਊചػ࢚ട ҃ച
ъઑغযঠೡѪ
ઑই
୭
ࣽ
ೠ҃൞
ীࠄোҳחҴղযಁۡস҅৬߂ޙӝҙী
۞ೠޙઁਵ۽ੋ೧যಁۡ$"%दझమಁఢઁ ࠺Ү݆ࠁәغযחযಁۡ$"%दझమઙ۽
ӝמীೠഝਊبܳ֫ӝਤೠदبоࣻ֙рৈࢿࠂ
Ӓ۔ਸࢎਊೞৈಁఢઁӝמীযࢲౠ
ਗഋࢸ҅җ
թࢿࠂ
ইزࠂ
ೠࠂী ܰӝө ݆ ܖযҊ ীࢲӝמٜীೠױ߂ޙઁਸঈೣਵ۽
ӂ
ӣৈࣼ
֢൞ࣼ
߅ࢿ
ॄ$"%दझమ۽Ӓ۔ѐࢶغযঠೡࠗ࠙ਸઁदೞৈ
߅গۆ
ࢳ
ࢶ൞
ࣽਗ
թਮ
ࢎਊӝࣿמ۱ਸ$"%दझమਸా೧࠙ߊൃೡࣻ
ӣࣽ
൞
ݺࣼ
ઑই
ਲ਼
ب۾ೣਵ۽ॄ$"%दझమഝࢿചܳبݽೞҊೞח
୭
Ӓ۞ա ۞ೠ োҳٜ ഋചػ ٣ ؘݾ
ੋীࢲࣻ߸ചীٮܲѾҗܳഝਊӝ۽كোҳޛ
ਵݴ
$"%दझమӝמীೠ೧৬ഝਊ
ਊਸ **োҳ ߑߨ ߂ ର
ਵ۽दبػোҳח۽Ӓۨ٬җ݃ఊӝמਸ
ਵ۽दبػোҳ۽ಁఢઁীয$"%दझమӝמਸ ࢎਊदझమ ࢶ
࠙ࢳೠোҳחഅ࠺ೠप ࠄোҳীࢲחҴղযಁۡস҅৬߂ޙӝҙী࠺
ಁఢઁӝמҗҙ۲غয$"%दझమਸ࠙ࢳೠোҳ۽ Ү ݆ ࠁәغয ח $"%दझమ Ҵ (FSCFS
חҘোन
ӣബࣼ
ࣗ
߅ࢶ҃
ઑ 5FDIOPMPHZ 1%44JMIPVUUFSFMFBTF৬ நա
ই
ӣध
١ ߅ࢶ҃
1"%दझమਸ 1"%4ZTUFN5FDIOPMPHJFT 1"%4ZTUFN
ਊೞৈӝמীೠഝਊҗ
ޙઁਸઁदೣਵ۽ॄ
.BTUFS1BUUFSO%FTJHOWਸ ಁఢઁӝמ ࠺Үܳ ਤ
1"%दझమਸ ਊೠ ٣ੋ ಁఢࢸ҅ ഝਊߑউী ҙ೧ ೠӝઙਵ۽ࢶೞҊ
োҳܳਤೠदझమജ҃
োҳೞҊ
ӣബࣼ
ࣗ
Ҵ যಁۡ $"%द
झమੋ"# "VUP#PVUJRVF
ӝמ ౠࢿҗ ױ ߂ ѐ (FSCFS
1"%दझమ ҳࢿ
ࢶ١ਸ࠙ࢳೞҘোन
Ѣߡ (FSCFS
݃ (FSCFS 1"%
(FSCFS 1"%
۽աझ .JDSPEZOBNJDT
ਬө :VLB
о दझమ Gerber Technology PAD System Technologies
ਸࢶఖೞৈઙܨਗೖझઁೞݶࢲҗ࢚ױਸ ઁઑഥࢎ Ҵ
நա
࠺Ү࠙ࢳೞਵݴ
ઑই
ӣध
Ѣߡ (FSCFS
ߡPDS/Silhoutte 2000 Master Pattern
ੋ߬झ۽פ *OWFTUSPOJDB
ਬө :VLB
ӝઙਸ ࢶ release 2.0.9 Design v4.0
System management Master Pattern
ఖೞৈز߸ഋӝמਊҗޙઁਸҊೞ Design/Master Digit
Ӓ۞ա۞ೠযಁۡ$"%दझమಁఢઁӝמഝ दझమҳࢿ Pattern Design 2000 Opticut AutoMarker
ߊোҳоܖয֙ୡ
߈ஹೊఠࢎਊജ Marker Making 3D Virtual
҃ %04ઁী ߄ఔਸ ك ࣗਝযਸ хউ೧ࠄ 䤎Pattern Design 2000 䤎Master Pattern Design/
ౠ
ݶ
8*/%08ઁо ߄ఔ ػ दझమীࢲ যಁۡ ীࢲಁఢࢸ҅ Master Digitীࢲಁఢࢸ҅
–92–
ഘࢶ୍
1.ಕ
߄٣झਗഋ%BSU.BOJQVMBUJPO ӝמী ҙೠ যಁۡ $"%दझమ ࠙ࢳ 3
োҳܳ ਤೠ दझమ ജ҃ ӝࠄ ߸ഋߑधҗ ߸ഋӝמ
System
System 䤎Pentium 4 1.7 GHz Method 䤎Pivotal -transfer-technique
Method 䤎Slash-spread-technique
Memory
Memory 䤎512 MB
OS Dart Moving 䤎Darts can be moved from one seamline
OS 䤎Microsoft Window XP professional service pack 2
HDD to another.
HDD 䤎80 GB Dart Dividing 䤎Darts can be divided into two or more
VGA
VGA 䤎G-force FX5200 128 MB smaller darts.
hard ware Dart Combining 䤎Smaller darts can be combined into
hard ware 䤎CD-ROM dirve, 3 ˬinch disk drive Function
etc. one large dart.
etc. 䤎Plotter, Printer, Scanner Dart Folding 䤎The dart to fold up
䤎The dart to fold down
৬э Dart Creating 䤎Draw to create newly
䤎Draw to modify
োҳ җ
%BSU.BOJQVMBUJPOӝמ ࠙ࢳਸ ਤೠ ӝࠄਗഋઁب חܴ݃ݽഋ Ӓܿ
ҋࢶഋ Ӓܿ ઙ
ಁఢઁӝמীࢲ%BSU.BOJQVMBUJPOӝמਸ ਵ ࢸ҅ೞחؘযفदझమରܳ࠙ࢳೞ
۽࠺Ү࠙ࢳਸਤೠӝࠄਗഋࢶীযࢲҮਭ҅ীࢲ݆
$"%दझమ ߹ ߸ചী ٮܲ ਗഋ৻Ҙࢶ
ਊغҊחਗഋഋࣼ
թਮ
धӝࠄਗഋ ӡ߸ച߂ઑߑध࠙ࢳ
ਸࢎਊೞৈ
ઁରೠҴੋੋࣻઑࢎࢎসࠁҊࢲীࢲ ӝࠄਗഋীࢲ ѹ٘یীࢲ ೲܻө ࢶӡח
_ࣁ ৈ ಣӐܳ ਊೞৈ пп दझమীࢲ ಁఢ ੋܳ߈ೠҊਬݴઑীযࢶӡ
ઁӝמਸਊೞৈઁبೞ оטযաѢաযٜঋইঠೠࠄোҳীࢲחदझమ
߹۽߸ചоਗഋ৻Ҙࢶӡীೱਸח
$"%दझమ߹%BSU.BOJQVMBUJPOӝמ ࠙ࢳ ಝࠁҊ
ઑߑधਸ࠺Ү࠙ࢳೞ
ࠄোҳীࢲחпп$"%दझమಁఢઁӝמߧਤ рѺ ӝࠄীࢲ
ӝࠄ
৬ߑधࣗରоਸҊ۰ೞৈ
п$"%दझమ߹
࠺ਯਸ ࢸೞҊ
п ࠺ਯ ߹۽ ਗഋ৻Ҙ
۽%BSU.BOJQVMBUJPOӝמਸ ࠺Ү ࠙ࢳೞౠ ࢶӡ৬ӡܳஏೞۧѱযਗഋ৻Ҙ
ӝࠄ߸ഋߑधҗ߸ഋӝמ
ز߸ഋӝמਸਊೠ ࢶӡܳాೞৈदझమ߹۽߸ചоਗഋ৻Ҙࢶӡ
߸ച
ઑߑध
ѐࣻীٮܲഋకҳࢿ ীೱਸחܳಝࠁҊ
ӡ৬ಁఢഋకܳ
ীٮܲदࢶݽনҗਗഋ৻ҘࢶোѾמ۱ਸ࠙ࢳೞ ా೧ઑߑधਸ࠺Ү࠙ࢳೞ Ӓܿ ஏ
$"%दझమ ߹ ӝࠄ ߸ഋߑध ߂ ߸ഋӝמ दझమীղػNFBTVSFӝמਸࢎਊೞ
࠺Ү࠙ࢳ
$"%दझమ ߹ ز߸ഋӝמ ਗഋ৻Ҙࢶ
दझమ߹۽߸ഋߑधҗӝࠄӝמਸಝࠁӝਤ োѾמ۱࠙ࢳ
೧ઑই
োҳীࢲ ز߸ഋӝמ ೦ݾਸ ഝਊೞ ز߸ഋӝמਗഋ৻ҘࢶোѾੜݏחಣо
߸ഋߑधҗӝמਸஏೞӝਤೠ೦ݾਵ۽ߑ ೞӝਤ೧दझమ߹۽ӝࠄਗഋখ౸ਸਊೞৈӝ
धѱಁఢഥߑधҗಁఢѐߑधоߑधҗ ীೠਗഋ৻ҘࢶোѾഋకܳಣоೞف߸ӡ
ӝࠄӝמز
࠙ߓ
ӝ
ࢿ߂୶оࢤ оܲ࠺டݽনীࢲز߸ഋӝמਊೠ
ࢿ ӝמ о ೦ݾਸ Ѩషೞ ژೠ ࣛӝࢶী ӒܿB ৬ ܳ ܖח ف߸ ӡ ӟ ӡܳ
ೠࢎࢶ Ӓܿ
࢚٣ੋಁఢࢸ҅दࢎਊغ ӝળਵ۽ೞৈݏز߸ഋӝמਸਊೞৈ
ઁ ର ೠҴੋ ੋࣻઑࢎ ࢎসࠁҊࢲ _ࣁ ৈ ಣӐ ױਤDN
ࠗਤ ӡ ࠗਤ ӡ ࠗਤ ӡ
ࠗ ਤ ӡ ࠗ ਤ ӡ ࠗ ਤ ӡ
оढلۨ খबӡ যӵց࠺
لۨ೦ݾ ೲܻلۨ ӡ೦ݾ ١ӡ ց࠺೦ݾ ԙࢎࣻಣӡ
়ؕلۨ ݾԙӡ ѹ٘یখ߷ࢎӡ
ݾ߃لۨ ়ؕӡ ѹ٘یٍ߷ࢎӡ
ܐਗӝࣿળਗ
ઁରೠҴੋੋࣻઑࢎࢎসࠁҊࢲ
–93–
ഘࢶ୍
1.ಕ
4 ೠоഥઁӂഐ
$ JOXBSE
#h1 h DVSWFT
'
$
h
'
#h1
PVUXBSE
DVSWFT
Ӓܿ ࢎࢶ Ӓܿ ܴ݃ݽഋ Ӓܿ ҋࢶഋ
ٜܳ݅ਸٸ ӒܿC ӝীೠਗഋ৻ҘࢶোѾ
מ۱ର৬ҳઑਵ۽ೠ࠺Ү࠙ࢳೞ Ӓܿ
B D ஏदझమীղػNFBTVSFӝמਸࢎਊೞ
#h1 $
h
$"%दझమ ߹ ഋకҳࢿী ٮܲ ࠺Ү ࠙ࢳ
'
D ࠄোҳীࢲনೠҳࢿܳࢿೞҊীળೞৈ
оزೡٸ
ӝী೧ਗഋ৻Ҙࢶഋక৬
C दࢶݽনҳઑਵ۽ݏחಣоೞݢ
оೠѐੋ٣ੋҗоفѐੋ٣ੋਸ࠙ܨೞ
Ҋ
ನੋ ࢸ о ೠ ѐੋ ٣ੋ #1ীࢲ
Ӓܿ ߸ചী ٮܲ ࠙ࢳ ߑߨ DNڄয Ҕী
о ѐੋ ٣ੋ#1ীࢲ_DN
$ $
h h
#h1 ' #h1 '
$
B
ӡ ઑহ ز߸ഋӝמਸ ਊೠ h
#h1 '
ز
$ $
h h
˝ #h1 ' #h1 ' D
ӝী ٮܲ ৻Ҙࢶ োѾמ۱ ࠙ࢳ
˞
C
˝ӡܳ ˞ӡ۽ ݏ റ ز߸ഋӝמਸ ਊೠ
Ӓܿ ز߸ഋӝמਸ ਊೠ ӝ ਗഋ৻Ҙࢶ োѾמ۱ ࠙ࢳߑߨ
–94–
no reviews yet
Please Login to review.
